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The Ultimate Guide to Shoe Care: Essential Rituals, Tools, and Techniques

Le guide ultime de l’entretien des souliers : rituels, outils et gestes essentiels
Taking care of your shoes is not an outdated chore: it is the secret to doubling their lifespan, preserving the leather's patina, and maintaining a polished look right down to your feet. A beautiful pair that is poorly maintained will degrade in a few months; nourished and protected with the right tools, it will last for years.

An overview of the essentials and the methods suited to each material.

1. The mechanical foundation: even before polishing

Maintenance begins well before the application of the first product.

Raw wood shoe trees

This is the non-negotiable accessory. As soon as you take off your shoes, insert raw cedar or unvarnished beechwood shoe trees:

  • They absorb moisture and perspiration accumulated throughout the day.

  • They stretch the leather, preventing walking creases from turning into irreversible cracks.

Laces: the detail that gives everything away

Frayed or discolored laces instantly ruin the appearance of a well-kept pair. For the maintenance ritual, always remove them to access the tongue.

  • Dress shoes: opt for thin and durable waxed cotton round laces.

  • Boots or rugged derbies: choose flat leather or sturdy braided cotton.

  • Sneakers: clean flat cotton laces immediately restore a brand-new look.

2. Smooth leather: the ritual

Smooth leather is a living material. Overloading it with wax suffocates it; it primarily needs to be cleaned and then deeply hydrated.

The necessary gear

  • A stiff brush (horsehair or hard bristles) for dusting.

  • Crème Universelle (Saphir): a fluid cleansing and moisturizing milk based on beeswax and jojoba oil.

  • A dauber brush for applying polishing creams.

  • A cotton polishing cloth (a clean old t-shirt also works).

  • Crème Surfine (Saphir): rich in beeswax and pigments, it deeply nourishes and revives the color.

  • Pâte de Luxe (Saphir): composed of hard waxes (carnauba, montan), it waterproofs and provides surface shine (ideal for high-gloss polishing).

  • A soft horsehair polishing brush.

The steps

  1. Dusting: energetically brush the entire upper, not forgetting the seams and the welt.

  2. Cleaning and pre-hydrating: apply a little Saphir Crème Universelle to your polishing cloth wrapped around your fingers. Apply it to the shoe by pulling the cloth towards you: this motion gently lifts impurities and old polish residue without oversaturating the leather, while beginning its rehydration. Let it dry for a few minutes.

  3. Nourishing and re-pigmenting: apply Crème Surfine in small circular dabs using the dauber or a clean part of the cloth. Let it rest for 10 to 15 minutes so the waxes and pigments penetrate the heart of the fibers.

  4. Polishing: brush vigorously with the polishing brush to bring out the leather's natural satin finish.

  5. Protecting and shining: apply a thin layer of Pâte de Luxe on the hard parts (toe cap and heel counter). Buff again. For those who enjoy high-gloss polishing, repeat the process with a droplet of fresh water on the cloth.

3. Suede, nubuck, and buckskin: gentleness and precision

Suede leather is less afraid of water than one might think, but it retains dust and oily stains. It does not tolerate cream or classic polish: its maintenance relies on adapted brushes and specific care products.

  • Daily brushing (Crepe brush): this is the ultimate gentle tool. It allows you to dust without damaging the material and delicately lifts the nap after each wear.

  • Scrubbing the fibers (Brass brush): for thicker or particularly soiled suede, the brass-bristle brush lifts embedded impurities. Use it with a light touch so as not to scratch the leather.

  • Erasing localized stains (Suede eraser): in case of a black mark, water spot, or area polished by friction, erase dry directly on the mark.

  • The deep clean (Omnidaim cleaner): when the pair is uniformly stained or soiled, the liquid Omnidaim cleaner acts like a gentle shampoo. Apply it with a damp brush to the entire shoe (to avoid water rings), lather delicately, then rinse with a sponge wrung out in clean water.

  • Protecting and reviving (Suede renovator): once the leather is completely dry (always on shoe trees), spray a renovator spray from about 20 cm away to soften the nap, revive the shade, and waterproof the material.

A memo of common mistakes to avoid

  • Never dry near a heat source: radiators or hair dryers irreversibly dry out leather and cause cracks. Always let them dry at room temperature, on shoe trees.

  • Do not confuse polishing and nourishing: using only Pâte de Luxe without Crème Universelle or Crème Surfine eventually dries out the leather under a shell of wax.

  • Keep a light hand: too much product saturates the skin and creates unsightly whitish deposits in the walking creases.

Take 20 minutes one Sunday a month for this ritual: your shoes will reward you for ten years.

Ready to equip your polishing kit?

Raw cedar shoe trees, Crème Universelle, specialized brushes, or Omnidaim stain remover: find our entire range of accessories and professional care products in the shop to give your shoes the maintenance they deserve.


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