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Barbour: The ultimate guide to choosing and caring for your waxed jacket

Barbour : Le guide ultime pour choisir et entretenir votre veste huilée

Introduction

Three Royal Warrants, over 125 years of history, and an inimitable style that transcends generations: Barbour is much more than a rainwear brand. It's an emblem of British style, equally at home in the countryside for hunting or in the city with a suit.

However, buying your first Barbour can be confusing. Between the historically very loose fit and the specific care required for waxed cotton, it's easy to get lost. Here's everything you need to know before ordering.

1. Bedale, Beaufort or Ashby: The Duel of Icons

This is the most frequently asked question. While all the jackets share the famous waxed cotton and corduroy collar, each model has its own specific function.

  • The Barbour Bedale: The rider. Originally created for horse riding, it is a short jacket.

    • Distinguishing features: It has ribbed (knit) cuffs inside the sleeves to cut the wind, and two snap-fastened back vents (for sitting astride).

    • Who is it for? Ideal for petite to medium builds, or those looking for a more dynamic and relaxed look. Note that it might be a little short if you're wearing a suit jacket underneath (which could show).

  • The Barbour Beaufort: The Huntress. This is the quintessential shooting jacket. It is longer than the Bedale (approximately 8 cm longer).

    • Distinguishing features: A large zipped game pocket in the back (very practical for putting a scarf or a newspaper in) and Velcro (nylon) cuffs to prevent dirt.

    • Who is it for? Perfect for larger builds or for wearing over a suit without it showing.

  • The Barbour Ashby: The modern one. This is the contemporary version of the Bedale.

    • Distinguishing features: It takes the design of the Bedale but with a fitted (Slim) cut and longer sleeves.

    • Who is it for? For those who find classic cuts too "potato sack-like" and are looking for a more urban and modern silhouette.

2. Size guide: Pay attention to "Classic" cuts

Size is the critical point at Barbour. The brand offers two very distinct types of fit.

  • The "Classic" models (Bedale & Beaufort) These jackets run very large . They are designed to allow you to wear a thick sweater or thermal lining underneath.

    • Tip: If you're looking for a modern, close-fitting style, don't hesitate to take a size smaller than your usual size.

    • The size system: C38 (S/M), C40 (M/L), C42 (L/XL).

  • The Ashby (Slim) style fits true to size. Take your usual size (S, M, L, XL). If you have broad shoulders, you may need to go up a size as the armholes are narrow.

3. Maintenance: The golden rule of oiled cotton

A Barbour jacket can last a lifetime, provided you follow one absolute rule.

  • TOTAL PROHIBITION: Washing machine. Never put your Barbour in the washing machine or dry clean, and never use hot water or soap. This will permanently remove the oil and render the jacket unusable (and not waterproof).

  • How do you clean a stain? Simply use a sponge with clean, cold water. Rub gently. That's all. The patina and signs of wear are part of the jacket's charm.

  • Rewaxing: Over the years, the jacket will dry out and turn grayish in areas of friction (elbows, pockets). This is a sign that it needs to be re-waterproofed. You can do this yourself by buying a tin of Barbour Thornproof Dressing Wax, melting it in a double boiler, and applying it with a cloth or sponge.

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